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Color Additives
There are various classes of Cosmetic Grade Color Additives available
on the market today such as FD&C, D&C, Lakes, Bismuth Oxychloride,
Oxides, Mica, Dyes, Pigments, Nacreous Pigment, Manganese and Ultramarines.
Color Additives are the only Cosmetic Ingredient regulated by the
FDA. It assures that these color additives are safe for use on humans
and contain no heavy metals, like Lead, Cadmium and Hexavalent Chromium.
These are the color additives FDA approved for use: Drug and Cosmetic,
or D&C, for use on the body and the Food, Drug and Cosmetic, FD&C,
also approved for consumption. Certain Oxides, Ultramarines and
Pearlescents are also approved for use. Note that these are all
synthetic. There are few approved "natural" colors permitted on
the market such as Annatto Seed. There is no such thing as a "natural"
color additive available. Unless specifically approved, all natural
color additives are banned by the FDA.
Cosmetic grade color additives fall into 2 broad categories: Organics
and Inorganics which can be Dyes or Pigments. From there,
they branch off into subcategories.
Organics
Organics are termed "Clean" colors or true brights and consist of
the following categories:
Dyes
Dyes can be water soluble or oil soluble. There only a few oil soluble
dyes available for cosmetic usage. Some water soluble dyes may present
problems with "bleeding" if used in too high a concentration in
your product. In transparent products, (such as Melt and Pour or
Gels), dyes give a transparent color like food coloring.
Pigments
Pigments can be Organic or Inorganic. These are both water and oil
insoluble and therefore do not dissolve but can be microscopically
dispersed so they appear to be dissolved. Only dyes are soluble
in a vehicle while pigments are insoluble compounds. Think of the
difference between instant coffe and hot chocolate powder. The coffee
dissolves but the powder is only dispersed and will fall to the
bottom of your cup.
Nacreous Pigment
Nacreous (Nay-kree-us) are also known as Pearlescent Pigments, (mica).
These may be composed of combinations of titanium dioxide and mica,
bismuth oxychloride or guanine. " Bismuth Oxychloride is a soft
metal - it is the "frost" in nailpolish. " Guanine is derived from
herring scales. Its primary use in the cosmetics industry is in
nail polishes. " Various organics and inorganic pigments may be
combined with the titanated micas to create unique dual color pearls.
Lakes
Lakes are Inorganic pigments and do not usually bleed or leach color.
There are 4 types of Lakes:
1. Calcium Salt
2. Barium Salt
3. Aluminum Salt
4. Sodium Salt
The color from the dye is placed onto one of these salts as an insoluble
base to hold the color onto. Which salt is used is determined by
the color desired as the salts impact on the resulting tone. Some
Lakes are also Rosinated. Rosin is derived from tree sap and gives
a blue tone to reds.
Inorganics
Inorganics are termed "Dirty" colors as they will never result in
a true clean bright color, but don't misunderstand - you can achieve
gorgeous earthy tones with Inorganics. Here are the categories:
Oxides
Oxides have been referred to as the "natural" pigments. However
they are in fact synthetically manufactured. This "myth" could be
attributed to the misconception that they are obtained from rust
or mineral sources - they are not. For example, chrome oxide green
does not occur anywhere in nature. It may also be that their tone
is more earthy than the D&C and FD&C dyes and pigments. It may also
be because they fall into the Inorganic category. There are three
oxide values:
• FEO
• FE203
• FE304
The red oxide gives a russet value, the black oxide a black value
and the yellow an ochre value.
Ferric Ammonium Ferrocyanide
This is not in any way related to the poison cyanide but contains
this term as it is a triple bond carbon-nitrogen group.
• It is more commonly known as Iron Blue or Prussian Blue.
• It is not stable in an alkaline solution so it fades out
in soap.
• Most pearlescents that are of a blue or purple tone contain
this.
• Not allowed for use in lip products.
Manganese Violet
• Unstable in alkaline media. Do not use in soap!
• Gives a deep purple to mauve tone in acid media such as lotions.
• Not for use in lip products!
Ultramarines
Ultramarines are unstable in acid media and therefore must be used
in an alkaline media above Ph of 7.2, (which soap is), or it will
release hydrogen sulfide, a noxious odor and poisonous chemical.
If you have ever mixed it with water or put it in lotion you will
know what I mean - it smells worse than rotten eggs!! Other than
the smell don't worry about it because it will take more than that
used in coloring a product to be dangerous. Pink, rose, violet and
blue.
Black Oxide & Titanium Dioxide
Black Oxide and Titanium Dioxide are used to darken or lighten,
(tone or tint) other pigments. Only very small quantities are required.
Titanium Dioxide is the primary ingredient in white house paint
and has the highest opacity of any pigment. It is either water or
oil dispersible.
Pearlescents
Pearlescents are in a class of their own. These have been referred
to and nicknamed as Mica. Their effects are achieved by simultaneous
light reflection, refraction and transmission as it encounters translucent
or transparent substances of high refractive indexes. Basically
the white light is broken up similar to light through a prism creating
a play of color. To manufacture pearlescents there are several steps
required, hence the higher cost. A substrate of mica, (a quartz
like substance that microscopically looks like tiny plates and resembles
talc in appearance), is used and several color sources can be applied
to achieve the desired color or effect. The particle size, which
the thickness of the particle is primary, is measured in microns
- typically between <15 and <150 microns and dictates the effect
of the light bending and reflecting off the substrate. This effect
is referred to as Luster.
• Low luster from a low size of micron substrate gives the
effect of a pearl with a smooth sheen.
• A medium size of micron substrate will give a silk or satiny
effect.
• The larger particle substrate gives a High Luster or Sparkle.
• The larger the substrate, the "sparklier" the effects, although
they are all shiny.
As the particle size increases the opacity in your product decreases.
At the low end your bar will look more opaque and at the high end
your bar will still have transparency. Remember as well, as you
add more of any pigment to your soap the opacity or transparency
of your bar will decrease.
The higher the particle size the more likely it is to sink in soap
if the soap is poured at too high a temperature. Same for thin lotions
or room sprays. Cooler soap is thicker and suspends the particles
better.
Color is achieved by coating the mica substrate with various dyes
and pigments. Some are titanium dioxide/mica coated with an additional
layer of colored pigment resulting in a brilliant color effects.
• Iron Oxide/Titanium Dioxide gives a gold pearl
• Chromium Oxide/Titanium Dioxide a green pearl
• Carmine or D&C Red 30 a red pearl
• Iron Oxide alone produces metallic effects such as the bronzes
and coppers
Others are coated with Iron Oxides, either red or black, and using
a larger thickness of the mica substrate to give the effect of a
2 tone or Interference Color. Held one way it will look one color
and turned it will give off another. Interference colors are two
toned pigments that give their effects as a result of light absorption
and light interference. They result from coating the substrate with
a color additive which absorbs light - also called a background
color - which has a different tone than the reflective color of
the interference pigment used over it.
For a red-yellow, (gold), the substrate is first coated with a background
red tone and then a yellow as the interference applied over it.
This causes the interference to reflect color and the red to absorb
color, held straight in light you will see the red, turn it so the
light now hits at an angle and you will see the yellow reflecting.
It is of importance that these nacreous pigments be properly dispersed
to ensure each particle is separate. The effects of these pigments
is also dependant on having the particles lined up in your product
and not just have the pigment at random. When they are at random
you will have a billowing effect of color from the soap being poured.
Although this has the effect of a billowing cloud which can be nice
on its own, this also decreases the ability of light to create a
play of color. One way to help achieve alignment is to pour your
soap and then using a spatula or hair pick drag the pigments in
one direction. While pearlescents can have some spectacular results,
keep in mind that they reflect better when they have what is known
as a background color. A red with a red background will look even
better than on its own.
LabColors
For soap making LabColors provide excellent results
especially when used in conjunction with Stephenson
soap bases. They are highly recommended for the following reasons:
• LabColors are made from D&C and FD&C dyes so you know they've
been tested to be safe.
• Stable in low & high PH environments.
• Proven to work wonderfully with Stephenson melt & pour soap
bases.
• Suitable for cold process, melt & pour soap making, lotions,
creams and gel products.
LabColors may be used by the drop or by mixing with water to give
you the flexibility to either use them by the drop undiluted, or if
you prefer, mixing them into liquids. To mix with water add the contents
of the 10ml bottle to 8 ounces of water, or add contents of the 20
ml bottle to 16 ounces of water.
Some of the LabColors that are available are as follows:
CAUTION
While all these color additives can be used "as is", keep in mind
that they are "raw materials". The manufacturers never intended
them to be used "as is". This is why there have been problems associated
with their use, ie., dots or speckling, bleeding, inconsistent color
results, funky colored lather and fading caused by light. For optimum
results they not only require further processing but a sound knowledge
of the chemistry of the additives is mandatory for optimum results.
There really is more than meets the eye in regards to this ie.,
not all additives are soap stable or light stable and a knowledge
of correct formulations are required. Artists color theory doesn't
always work when mixing dyes and you can get some unexpected results.
There can be many variables which can affect the resulting color
i.e., yellow fragrance oils and base oils, pH, and for mandp'ers,
not all soapbase is created the same. Always do a small test with
your soap first! While all these dyes and pigments are approved
for use, a word of caution here, they are not by any means a "finished"
product, these are still raw materials. There are varying maximum
amounts allowed or permitted by the FDA and certain colors can not
be used around the eyes or mouth, such as oil soluble dyes. There
are even colors that are banned for any use like Red 19. Although
they are used extensively in our lives they are used "finished".
In our case "finished" is in soap or other toiletries. Resist any
temptation you may have to use any pigments on your skin straight
especially in the lip and eye area unless properly preserved. Even
though pearlescents have made a comeback in retail eye makeup, they
are not by any means properly preserved or formulated for use as
is. Most of these eyeshadows may contain less than 10% pearlescent
pigments - the rest is filler. The eye area - more specifically
the eyelashes - have a naturally occurring bacteria on them. If
your product is not properly preserved and you contaminate your
product, (and you expose and infect yourself to this bacteria, once
growing uncontrolled in your product), there is no cure for this
infection and you will go blind within 24-48 hours. In other words,
don't risk using any pearlescent or other color straight as eyeshadow.
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