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Newbie Recipe Review
2010-04-13, 1:07 PM
Post: #1
Rose Geramium Soap

I got some rose geranium EO and it smells great! So, I wanted to make a soap out of it.

@7% superfat

30% Olive Oil Pomace

30% Palm Oil

20% Coconut Oil 76

10% Castor Oil

5% Mango Seed Butter

5% Cocoa Butter

1g/lb French Pink Clay

0.5g/lb Rosehip Botanical Extract

0.2fl oz(6ml)/lb Rose Geranium EO

I have a few questions about my work in progress:

On Soapcalc, my INS # is 151 and my Hardness is 41. I want to keep my coconut oil at 20%. I really like the idea of creating a hard and long lasting bar. Do you think it will be hard enough?

I have never used clay in soap. Is 1g/lb a good amount of French pink clay? I read that is will add color, a soft slickness. Will that ratio be enough to feel a difference?

Has anyone used Rose Geranium Essential Oil? I didn't want the Rose Geranium to be too over-powerful, and it is pricey for me. It seems like the RG EO is relatively strong. Is 6ml/lb a good rate?

I had a bad experience with the orange wax. I used 3% in my soap and found it to be very irritating. But, everything I read suggested the orange wax was mild on the skin. I couldn't find any information on rosehip botanical extract. It seems like it would add a nice color to the soap. My concern is that it may be acidic and effect the saponification. Any thoughts?

I realize this is a long and rambling post. Thanks to everyone in advance that sends their thoughts and suggestions!

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2010-04-13, 4:03 PM
Post: #2
hi, welcome to the forum! I use clay at 1 tsp or more per pound of oils (ppo).

You'll find that essential oils fade ALOT over the cure and people generally recommend .7oz to 1oz ppo. I'm finding 1oz ppo is better than .7oz.

It's very expensive to soap with EOs and, in my opinion, an unneccesary expense in a wash-off product. I think EOs are best served where they are not put through the saponification process. I'm sure alot of their beneficial properties are eaten up by the lye.

So far, I haven't been very happy with any of my EO soaps as they hardly have any scent left after a 3 month cure, and I personally like fragrance oil scents much better.
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2010-04-13, 5:03 PM
Post: #3
The rosehip extract will oxidize. The color won't stay. I use anywhere from 0.5 to 1 oz. of essential oil per lb. of soap.
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2010-04-13, 9:40 PM
Post: #4
I use almost exclusively EO's in my soap and I love them! They need to be tested though for how long they will last. Some blends seem to last indefinitely. If the blend and/or single essential oil does not hold up ... then we have to stop using that one.

0.75 ounce to 1.0 ounce per pound of oils ... of course we actually weigh them in grams.
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2010-04-13, 9:42 PM
Post: #5
Good to know on all counts. I guess I get worried about using so much essential oil because they seem so strong. But, I guess they evaporate relatively quickly.

Is there anything that I can add to the soap to help it retain it's scent?

Why do I see some soaps with Sodium Chloride on the ingredient list of some of the soaps I buy?? What's the purpose?

What's the best way to add hardness with out cleansing? Is cocoa butter the only way? Or are there other choices?
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2010-04-13, 9:48 PM
Post: #6
Sodium Chloride aka salt adds hardness to soap.
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2010-04-14, 12:32 AM (This post was last modified: 2013-07-08 1:32 PM by SylviaG.)
Post: #7
RE: Newbie Recipe Review
Dead sea salt has it own moisture. I've seen soaps that weeped made with sea salt. I would not recommend it. I would use plain table salt.
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2010-04-14, 7:56 AM
Post: #8
In the past I have used FO's and can tell you that they definitely stick much better than EO's.

I have a Freesia bar I made a year ago and it still drives me mad with the fragrance (will it ever die off??!! X-D )

I don't do well with FO's, they give me horrid headaches and stupidly, I was feeling ambitious one day, and thinking of changing direction with my soaping and spent a ridiculous amount of $$ on FO's. What was I thinking?

I'm sticking with EO's - it's my preference and also appeals to the crowd I hope to one day sell to. I only wish there was a way to fix the scent better.

I've tried using Litsea for citrusy blends - didn't notice much of an improvement.

I never did like strongly scented products anyway, but a wee bit more would be nice. I use 1 oz. ppo (I still weigh in ounces).
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2010-04-14, 11:31 AM
Post: #9
Cedarwood Oil (Western Red) - 7 parts

Fir Needle Oil (Douglas) - 6 parts

Clove Bud Oil (Wild, Dark) - 2 parts

Frankincense Olibanum (Somaria) - 1 parts

Myrhh Oil (Ethiopia) - 1 parts

(I also added 1% Frankincense Tears PLUS Myrhh Resin to the soap blend)

I have bars using this blend that are several years old and they still have scent.

There are a few others as well ... however, I do agree with you that FO's will outlast (scent wise) EO's.

I cannot use them personally ... not at all ... not even a little. LOL

So, I have had to deal exclusively with EO's for a long time. Many of the blends that we've tried over the last 40 years or so have been good ... some not so good ... some terrible! Some, while in the package seem to lose their scent ... but add warm water and soap .. the scent is there again.

It really is a matter of trial and error.
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2010-04-14, 9:15 PM
Post: #10
You can make your bar harder without making it more cleansing by adding shea butter, and/or palm oil. And a hard bar is a long lasting one, at least, my shea butter soaps last for ever!!

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