All About Solubilizer (Polysorbate 20)
Published by hstables@newdirectionsaromatics.com BigCommerce on 28th Apr 2026
December 7, 2018
All About Solubilizer (Polysorbate 20)
Polysorbate 20 is a water-soluble solubilizer and nonionic surfactant derived from sorbitol and ethylene oxide, widely used in cosmetic formulations to blend oil and water-based ingredients. It works by binding essential oils and fragrance oils to liquid, gel, or cream bases, preventing separation and improving product stability and clarity. In addition to enhancing spreadability and consistency, it also acts as a dispersing, wetting, and viscosity-stabilizing agent, making it especially useful in transparent, scented personal care products like cleansers, bath products, and baby care formulations.
What Is Polysorbate 20 Made Of?
When Sorbitol – a sugar alcohol that can be derived from either a vegetable or a fruit source – is treated with 20 moles of Ethylene Oxide, the chemical reaction results in Sorbitan Monolaurate, which is also known as a Polysorbate (specifically Polysorbate 20 or Solubilizer). Solubilizer is a water-soluble emulsifier, which binds water and oil together.
Polysorbate 20 is a gentle, oily, liquid cosmetic additive that functions as a nonionic surfactant and wetting agent that enhances the spreadability of liquids. As a solubilizer, it helps both essential oils and fragrance oils to attach to various types of cosmetic bases, including liquid, cream, and gel bases, and thereby prevents the oils and bases from separating. As a dispersant, it also helps to diffuse oils throughout water and to prevent the oils from clumping or settling. As an anti-static agent, Polysorbate 20 helps to reduce and prevent the buildup of static charges. Furthermore, it is a thickener as well as a viscosity modifier, which helps prevent changes to a product’s viscosity when it is subjected to varying room temperatures, such as extreme cold or heat.
Polysorbate 20 Function
Polysorbate 20 is added to water-based cosmetic formulations as the last component required for ensuring that essential oils and fragrance oils remain blended with the bases to which they are added. Its soothing, non-irritating quality makes it ideal for addition to formulations for bath products, for body and facial cleansers, for baby products, and for other transparent and scented products, as it helps retain both the fragrance and the clarity.
Polysorbate 20 is a multifunctional solubilizer used in cosmetic formulations to blend oil and water-based ingredients, stabilize products, and improve clarity, consistency, and fragrance distribution across a wide range of personal care applications.
How to Use Polysorbate 20
To incorporate Polysorbate 20 into a formulation, blend it with an equal amount of essential oils or fragrance oils for a 1:1 ratio of solubilizer to scent. Blend this combination until it is a clear mixture, then stir it directly into the base to stabilize the essential oils, to ensure that they remain thoroughly combined in the formula, and to help the final product maintain its transparency.
Product Types & Functions
When added to formulations such as:
- Face Wash, Toner, Face Cream
- Body Wash, Body Lotion, Body Spray, Bath Oil
- Room Spray, Linen Spray
- Ointment, Balm, Salve
- Shampoo, Pomade, Hair Spray
- Foundation, Lip Makeup, Mascara
- Baby Skin Care, Sun Block
Solubilizer Polysorbate 20 functions as a:
- Solubilizer
- Stabilizer
- Emulsifier
- Surfactant
- Wetting Agent
- Dispersant
- Anti-static Agent
- Thickener
- Viscosity Modifier
- Fragrance Ingredient
- Lubricant
Benefits in Cosmetic Formulations
It helps to:
- Combine immiscible ingredients
- Gently cleanse and soothe the skin and scalp
- Create foam in cleansing products
- Offer a consistent thoroughly-blended feel to products
- Maintain product transparency and clarity
- Enhance spreadability of product on skin
Recommended Usage Rates
The recommended maximum dosage is 1-20%.
Contraindications for Solubilizer Polysorbate 20
As with all other New Directions Aromatics products, Solubilizer Polysorbate 20 Raw Material is for external use only. It is imperative to consult a medical practitioner before using this product for therapeutic purposes. Pregnant and nursing women as well as those with sensitive skin and an allergy to coconuts are especially advised not to use Solubilizer Polysorbate 20 Raw Material without the medical advice of a physician. This product should always be stored in an area that is inaccessible to children, especially those under the age of 7.
Prior to using Solubilizer Polysorbate 20 Raw Material, a skin test is recommended. This can be done by dissolving 1 tsp Solubilizer Polysorbate 20 Raw Material in 1 tsp of a preferred Carrier Oil and applying a dime-size amount of this blend to a small area of skin that is not sensitive. Solubilizer Polysorbate 20 must never be used near the inner nose and ears or on any other particularly sensitive areas of skin.
Potential side effects of Solubilizer Polysorbate 20 include skin irritation. In the event of an allergic reaction, discontinue use of the product and see a doctor, pharmacist, or allergist immediately for a health assessment and appropriate remedial action. To prevent side effects, consult with a medical professional prior to use. In some products with Solubilizer Polysorbate 20, the water and oils may separate; however, they will become re-emulsified upon shaking.